Some years ago, as a compounding pharmacist I became interested in making cosmetics. I had stumbled on a book by a dermatologist in California, Dr. Nicholas Perricone, who helped movie stars look younger. I learned what ingredients actually work to improve the look of the skin. Later I attended a conference in Houston on making cosmetics, and learned more about how to make products that were effective and "cosmetically elegant".
So, I decided to make a basic cream that contained all of the best ingredients. Why not have it all in one cream? I shared it with my family (I have 2 sisters and 8 sisters-in-law!) who helped me improve the formula and used it myself for many years. And I sold lots of jars at my pharmacy for a very reasonable price. It was never intended to be a big money maker… just good fun.
One day my interest in cosmetics took a turn... a man came to see me at the pharmacy with a case of water packed in 500ml soda bottles and information on research being done at a local university. The company was called Inventures, and they had patented a method of putting large amounts of oxygen into water (19-times the amount in the atmosphere). They had been using the water in the fish culture industry to increase oxygen in salmon tanks, and they noticed a distinct improvement in the appearance of the fish's skin.
Apparently salmon are genetically close to humans, so they wondered whether the oxygenated water would improve human's skin too. Researchers at the University of New Brunswick were testing whether it would be useful to treat skin conditions like eczema. They'd heard I was doing some different work in my pharmacy, and wondered if I'd be interested in playing with some of their oxygen water…
My first suggestion was to make a gel out of the water so it could be applied to the skin instead of filling a container and soaking in it. I still remember the fellow saying,"You can do that?" "That's what I do…" I told him... For a compounding pharmacist, making a gel out of water is simple stuff. I later heard the company's engineers were so excited they were practically jumping up and down when they heard my idea!
Well, I had a lot of fun with that water…and I added it to some pharmaceutical compounds too. Muscle spasms are painful because of a lack of oxygen, so having oxygen in a muscle relaxant gel formula helps relieve pain. But the company was more interested in the cosmetic side, as it's less complex to get market approval for a cosmetic than for a medicine. I sometimes wonder whether a pharmaceutical company might have been interested in producing something like the “Relax Gel” I used to make...
I worked with them on their cosmetic product on a volunteer basis for several years. At one point, they set up a manufacturing plant in our spare bedroom at my home, complete with systems to oxygenate and sterilize the water, automated mixing in a giant pressure cooker with lots of gauges and valves, and a labelling machine. We wore masks, gloves and even Hazmat suits to protect the product we were producing. My husband, who was involved in this part, joked that he was worried the neighbours might think we were making “crack” if they saw us through the window!
The company was a lot of fun to work with, but eventually they built a small commercial facility to produce oxygenated gel for the US market. Apparently it works well to soothe the skin after a chemical peel!
This story came to mind as I started reading a new book about cosmetics today. I thought of sharing some of what I've learned in a mini-series on cosmetics...what works, what doesn't, and what you can do without taking extreme measures or spending a lot of money to look your best at any age. Does that sound interesting? I hope so...
Looking great while you "age gracefully"....
While I believe in accepting who you are, how you look, and aging gracefully, I also think it doesn't hurt to put your "best foot forward", as they say. It's well worth it if what you're doing is non-invasive, non-toxic, and not expensive or overly time-consuming. As one friend says, we all have our skin care routines. Some are simple, others more complex. Perhaps some of what I've learned can help improve your routine…
Prevention vs repair...
First, you need to know your skin. Some of us have skin that is much more sensitive than others or has special requirements. I know I have pores that clog easily and I need to cleanse thoroughly and exfoliate regularly to prevent skin problems. But others need to avoid harsh cleansers or excessive rubbing to prevent redness and increased skin sensitivity. This could mean just washing with clear water is best for you, avoiding soaps and cleansers altogether.
It's always better to prevent than to cure, too. Many of our lines and wrinkles are caused by habitual frowns or tensing of facial muscles. Look in the mirror to see where grooves and lines are beginning to form and you will see what areas of your face you tense up when you´re worried or concentrating. Consciously relax these areas during the day to prevent deepening of these lines. I have created a little habit of rubbing my trouble spots to smooth them and make my muscles relax in those specific areas. But the new book I'm reading suggests putting a piece of tape on the problem area in the evening to bring your attention to the muscles you are tensing so you can train yourself to stop. I may give it a try!
The other preventive strategy is to keep skin hydrated and healthy. I´ll talk more about diet for healthy skin in a later post, but we all know that dry skin looks older and less healthy. Using moisturizer, or just plain olive oil for your body, makes a huge difference in the appearance of your skin. Note that olive oil takes longer to absorb into the skin than commercial moisturizers but it's a wonderful emollient and moisturizer. And moisturized skin is more resilient too. Thin dry skin can be more susceptible to abrasion or injury. Just drinking plenty of fluids can help improve the hydration of skin as well.
Even folds in the skin caused by your sleeping position can become permanent wrinkles if creased the same way every night. Sleeping on your back can avoid this and helps gravity work for you for a while. Using a smooth satin pillow can reduce sleep skin folds if your habit is to sleep on your side.
There are four other contributors to skin aging you should be aware of:
Excess UV radiation can cause sun damage and speeds aging of the skin.
Smoking constricts blood vessels to the skin, depriving it of oxygen and nutrients, plus it dehydrates the skin and increases free-radicals that damage skin cells.
Excess sugar in the diet increases damaging inflammation in the skin and glycation of collagen (attachment of sugar molecules) that stiffens the skin's collagen.
Excess alcohol causes flushing and dehydration of the skin, creating a ruddy, blotchy complexion.
All of these causes of increased skin aging create increased free radicals, damaged oxygen molecules that cause cell damage and aging throughout the body.
Vitamin C and other antioxidants neutralize free radicals and this is the mechanism behind vitamin C serums. Consuming vitamin C in the diet or as a supplement would be expected to give a similar effect.
Perhaps after a significant birthday -- 30, 50 or maybe 65 -- you suddenly noticed a change in your skin you were sure wasn't there before… Chances are, these gradual changes had already started, but you were looking with a more critical eye because of the number of candles on that cake. But, relax… if it bothers you, there's plenty you can do to slow the development and minimize the appearance of skin lines and wrinkles.
So, start with prevention. Consuming sweet snacks with an alcoholic drink and a cigarette at the beach could be a recipe for looking older than you are! Try ice water, SPF 60 or an umbrella, and some fruit to snack on at the beach instead, and protect your skin...
And next week I’ll talk about some simple and inexpensive ideas to make improvements to changes that may have already happened...
References:
The Perricone Prescription -- Nicholas Perricone, MD
The Age Fix -- Anthony Youn, MD
